As a condo owner, you enjoy most of the same freedoms as an owner of a traditional house. But when remodeling a condo, you may realize that certain parts of your home don’t belong to you.

Your homeowner’s association (HOA) may respect the privacy and autonomy of each condo and its occupants. But it also must ensure the integrity of the entire structure, for the benefit of all residents.

So some items within your unit—like plumbing and electrical systems—are shared among multiple units, and considered common property.

Remodeling a condo: Know what you can and cannot do

The first step to renovating a condo is understanding the rules established by your HOA. Following their guidelines—usually called Covenants, Conditions and Restrictions (CC&Rs)—is essential during any remodeling project.

In addition to structural integrity, HOAs are sensitive to one of the most common owner complaints: noise. Minimizing noise guides many HOA policies.

For example, you may want to replace old carpeting with nice, new hardwood or laminate flooring. It’s a popular upgrade for improving quality of life and increasing resale value. But you may also have to install insulated padding beneath the floor to deaden the clicking of your high heels.

As home improvement website The Spruce points out, some municipalities require permits for renovating a condo. For example, the City of Minneapolis requires a permit for condo owners to replace carpet with any kind of hard flooring.

Projects requiring HOA approval

When remodeling a condo, the following items are structurally significant for the entire building, so any alterations generally require HOA approval.

• Interior or exterior walls
• Structural floor
• Ceilings
• Columns
• Finish flooring
• Plumbing
• Electrical
• Aesthetic changes to the exterior

Projects not requiring HOA approval

Although you should always verify with your HOA, it is likely that the following items will not require approval.

• Interior painting
• Crown molding
• Replacing baseboards
• Replacing or repairing door and window casings
• Replacement of light fixtures, outlets, and switches
• Replacement of shower, bath, or sink fixtures
• New floors that are the same type as the old floor
• Built-in cabinets and new kitchen cabinets

The type of condominium you live in may influence what kind of updates you can make. If your home is considered a site condo, townhome, or planned unit development, you may have more freedom in renovating.

Some CC&Rs may require permits or formal approvals before any type of work can begin. If in doubt, find out!

Remodeling a condo: Know when and where you can do it

The CC&Rs may have specific guidelines for what days of the week and times of day renovation work can be done. Rules may also govern the hours during which materials can be delivered to the building. They may also specify certain entrances, elevators, and hallways.

Not checking on these logistical details in advance can cause massive headaches later when trying to schedule deliveries or appointments.

Measure first, move second

In addition to knowing which doors and elevators you can use, it’s important to measure their dimensions first. You don’t want to haul a large drywall panel to your condo’s elevator before you realize it doesn’t fit.

Stay in your neighbors’ good graces

Cultivate and maintain a good relationship with your neighbors before you begin your remodeling project. Asking them about their experience with remodeling may give you valuable insight while also building a rapport—and their trust.

That positive relationship may be valuable if the access panel for your bathtub’s plumbing is in your neighbor’s bedroom.

And even if the access panel is within your own condo, the plumber may need to shut off the water. Will that affect your neighbor’s water supply?

Remodeling a condo: Give yourself a long timeline

Given all the requirements your CC&Rs may have, and the time required to secure the approvals and permits, it’s important to have a flexible timeline. Carefully estimate how long you think everything will take—and then add at least two months.

Be flexible

Some owners enter a project with very specific ideas about the finished product. They may have their heart set on a particular fixture or a specific type of faucet.

However, being open to suggestions from experienced professionals—or a creative friend or neighbor—may guide your project in exciting, unexpected directions. A cost savings here may create a new opportunity there.

Also, if you’re planning extensive renovations, you may want to find a place for you and your family to stay during the process.

When to consider hiring a contractor

Even if you think you can renovate a condo yourself, the job presents some unique challenges that hiring a contractor can solve:

• Navigating your HOA’s regulations can be nerve-wracking. Let a professional contractor review your CC&Rs with you to ensure the renovations are within regulations.
• In a condo, the space is limited, finite, and shared. An experienced contractor specializes in maximizing space and working within the restrictions of multi-family housing.
• CC&Rs often limit renovation work to normal weekday business hours, to minimize noise on evenings and weekends. Rather than choose between your first-shift job and your renovation, you may want to hire a contractor instead.

When you’re ready to begin remodeling a condo, please contact us at LaBonte Construction.

We were voted Best of Milwaukee 2024 by Shepherd Express readers in the Home Remodeling, Basement/Rec Room Remodeler, Bathroom Remodeler, and Kitchen Remodeler categories.

Our home remodeling firm gets the most calls about building a home gym after the holidays. But seasonal weight-gain guilt and New Year’s resolutions are only part of the increasing popularity of home-based exercise spaces.

Home gyms are common home remodeling projects for fitness enthusiasts and large homes year-round.

The safety concerns of the last few years made working out at home even more commonplace. This trend was on public display during the meteoric rise of Peloton’s stock while gyms were forced to close.

Home gyms are often further down the remodeling list than adding a powder room or remodeling a kitchen. But they are often less expensive than a wine cellar or home theater.

In Milwaukee, home exercise rooms are often part of a basement remodeling project. In order to make your new home gym a place you want to use, it is important to:

• Find the perfect space.
• Adequately plan space based on your equipment.
• Consider the lighting.
• Make sure there are entertainment options.
• Choose the best materials.

Location

Choosing the right room can affect the home gym’s aesthetic, and how often you use the space. It will also determine how extensive the remodeling process is going to be.

Choosing a room close to a bathroom means you can avoid walking through the house full of sweat.

Picking a room with natural light can make you feel more energetic and motivated during dark winter months.

Depending on the types of exercises you do, you may want to select an isolated location so your workout does not interrupt your housemates’ sleep or work.

If budget is a concern, avoid an area of the house without existing walls, and pick a spare bedroom or attic instead.

In addition to the size of the room, also consider the height of the room depending on what exercises you want to be able to do.

Remember, depending on your equipment, your room does not have to be huge!

Equipment

Take an inventory of the exercise equipment you own or will need for your workout before calling a remodeling contractor.

Doing some online research about the required clearances around each piece of equipment will give you an idea of how much space your remodeling project will need.

Don’t forget to consider the height of the machines! If you find you do not have a ton of space, consider products from companies like Mirror, Tonal, or Forme, which offer a comprehensive workout without taking up much floor space.

Lighting

While we encourage all our home remodeling clients to incorporate as much natural light into their projects as they can, most of our clients build a home gym in the basement, where natural light is hard to come by.

Instead of excessive LED lights seen in warehouse-style commercial gyms, we can work with a lighting designer to install layers of lighting that create a less sterile mood and be customized to your family.

Having a unique fixture not seen in commercial applications can be a really fun way to create a unique space and a sense of luxury.

By making a lighting plan before we start the remodeling project, we can make sure all your workout zones are well lit.

Incorporating mirrors can also help brighten the space as well as provide a visual component to your workout.

As with all rooms, consider the paint color and sheen. A light color can help reflect light and make a space feel brighter. A dark color with accent lights can make a room feel more industrial.

See also: Our post, Paint Sheens Explained.

If you can’t get all of the lighting you want in your space, adding glass doors or walls can brighten up a dark space and allow in natural or made light from an adjoining room.

Entertainment

Maybe you have a Peloton with an integrated screen. Or you might think the mental image of a trimmer you is all you need to stay focused. But you should probably still mount a television.

Adding a smart TV can allow you to access workout videos on YouTube, from streaming services, or even a private training session over Zoom or Skype.

In addition to a TV, adding a set of speakers from your distributed audio system will allow you the same control over your music and podcasts as you have in the rest of your home.

OK, so if haven’t installed a whole-home audio system yet, Wi-Fi speakers from Bluesound or Sonos would be great too. Both options are discrete and provide access to lots of music or other audio formats from your phone.

Many of these speakers can be wall or ceiling mounted so they won’t occupy valuable floor space—or get karate kicked or body checked in the heat of the moment.

Materials

Flooring

The most common materials are vinyl, rubber, foam and turf. Weightlifters may also want a dedicated lifting platform, which is often made of sturdy wood.

Commercial gyms most commonly use rubber flooring for its durability and ease of cleaning. Athletic training facilities or sports performance centers often use turf.

Foam is a popular home-gym flooring choice, but foam floors are not as durable, are less resistant to moisture, and provide less traction.

Horse stall mats are also popular options for home gyms.

Soundproofing

Clanging, banging, and grunting are fine at Planet Fitness or the South Shore Athletic Club. But you might want to keep those noises inside your home gym.

If you have the luxury of building new walls for your home gym, you can use products specifically designed for sound reduction, such as QuietRock drywall and ROCKWOOL Safe’n’Sound insulation. There’s even soundproofing paint. On existing walls, you could add soundproofing tiles.

On a limited budget, hanging blankets or quilts on the walls can make a difference as well. But many websites, such as Soundproof Nation, list some other relatively inexpensive methods that are somewhat less tacky.

You can also replace regular, hollow doors with solid-core doors.

Other considerations

Our motto, “Home is in the Details,” applies to a home gym as much as the rest of your house.

After the major design is tackled, it is important to think about smaller items that make working out at home as enjoyable as a club and encourage you to stay with your fitness goals.

Storage

Storage solutions will help you keep the floor free from clutter. Consider hooks for resistance bands or your boxing gloves and racks for your foam rollers or yoga mats.

Cabinets

Installing custom cabinetry or a bar is a great idea for storing clean towels, a hamper for dirty towels, or house a beverage center (internal link) to keep you hydrated.

Seating

It’s nice to have a chair to sit down and tie your shoes, or a bench to relax on between sets.

Create the Best Fitness Room for Your Home

Regardless of your space or needs, contacting a qualified remodeling contractor like LaBonte Construction should be your first order of business after taking inventory of your wants and needs.

LaBonte Construction was voted Best of Milwaukee 2024 by Shepherd Express readers in Basement/Rec Room Remodeling. We were also voted best in Home Remodeling, Bathroom Remodeling, and Kitchen Remodeling, and were finalists in Home Builder.

In this post, we explain the different types of plumbing pipe frequently found in your home and where they are used. In our bathroom remodeling or kitchen remodeling projects, we end up tying into the existing plumbing in the house.

Plumbing pipes perform two basic functions in your home:

• Supply lines, which are pressurized and distribute potable water from the main water utility service line to your faucets, showers, toilets, and appliances.
• Waste or sewer lines, which carry used water out of the home.

We work primarily on older homes. They were typically built with copper or galvanized steel pipe for the pressurized lines and cast iron for the waste lines.

Types of Plumbing Pipe: Supply Lines

Metal

Metal piping owes its popularity to its longevity and durability. The primary disadvantage of some types of metal piping is that they corrode over time and can flake off rust.

The following metals contain negligible amounts of iron, so iron oxide, or rust, does not form.

Copper

While copper can be used as both supply and waste lines, it is most commonly used in supply lines. There are four major types of copper pipes:

• Type M: The most common, used to carry domestic water. Type M pipe commonly supplies toilets, sinks, and faucets.
• Type L: Thicker and more frequently seen as boiler piping and in commercial fire protection applications.
• Type K: The thickest pipe, and overkill for our home remodeling projects. It can be used for main water lines and underground.
• DWV (drain, waste, and vent): Used for waste, drains, and vents in some midcentury and older homes. When we encounter this type of plumbing during a home remodeling project, we usually replace it with a more modern pipe to save on cost.

Stainless steel

Stainless steel is generally not used in remodeling projects.

But some stainless-steel alloys—a nickel-steel alloy, for example—offer even more corrosion resistance than stainless steel alone.

Other materials—such as molybdenum—strengthen steel, which reduces the amount of material used and yields a lighter-weight finished product.

Brass

Brass is most commonly used between two dissimilar metals to stop a dielectric reaction. An example would be transitioning from old galvanized pipe in the wall to copper stub outs when remodeling a bathroom.

Brass costs less than other metals such as stainless steel or copper. But it can be difficult to work with because of its high melting point. In addition, it’s susceptible to tarnishing over time if exposed to certain elements.

Galvanized

Galvanized steel pipes have been dipped in a protective zinc coating to prevent corrosion and rust. Commonly installed in homes built before 1960, galvanized pipe was an alternative to lead pipe for water supply lines.

Galvanized steel is not often used for water anymore because the galvanizing process is not as good as it used to be, and the pipes do not hold up. We use it only for small repairs of existing galvanized plumbing.

Long-term exposure to water causes galvanized pipes to corrode and rust on the inside.

However, galvanized steel is much more resistant than copper to freeze damage.

Plastic

Plastic pipes are generally lighter, easier to work with, and less expensive to install. They are also easier to cut and fit into tight areas. In addition, it’s generally easier to find odd or unusual plastic pieces.

On the downside, plastics are not as heat resistant and require more frequent replacement than metal piping. Also, use of some plastic pipes is restricted in some municipalities.

PEX

PEX—declared by Family Handyman magazine as the “biggest revolution since the flush toilet”—has been a game changer for us as remodeling contractors.

Short for cross-linked polyethylene, PEX is much cheaper and freeze-resistant than copper pipe. It also installs faster, and Its flexibility can sometimes save us from having to open walls during remodeling.

PEX comes in rolls, 20’ sticks, and 10’ sticks. Because PEX has a “memory”—it tends to return to its original shape—the sticks can be easier to work with in a wall cavity.

The rolls are superior for long runs because there are no joints that could be potential failure points.

PEX pipe is available in three main colors for indoor plumbing: red (for hot water), blue (for cold water), and white. While the chemical structure is the same between the colors, color coding makes it easier to trace a line for repair or make the final connections to a kitchen sink or a shower valve during a bathroom remodeling project.

CPVC

An upgrade from PVC, CPVC (chlorinated polyvinyl chloride) can withstand higher temperatures—up to 200°F—than PVC.

Also, it is more durable than PEX and less susceptible to damage from hazardous materials or extreme heat.

Downsides of CPVC: It is not resistant to UV rays; it has to be glued at every joint (more potential failure points); it can become brittle.

Types of Plumbing Pipe: Waste Lines

If you have an older home, you may see a mix of pipes manufactured from cast iron, plastic, copper and galvanized pipe. Here are the general kinds of waste line piping you can choose from.

PVC

PVC (polyvinyl chloride) is generally the go-to material for waste lines. It’s highly resistant to chemicals, it’s easy to cut, and it resists heat.

Using a chemical solvent and plastic fittings, your plumber can create a lasting seal where cuts need to be made.

Cast iron

Cast iron is a very durable and highly sanitary material for use in the home. The reason to use it: it is quiet; PVC is loud.

The reasons to not use it: it is heavy and expensive, can corrode over time, and is harder to work with. Today, most plumbers use PVC to replace waste line piping.

Chromed brass

Chromed brass is an effective alternative to PVC piping in areas where the pipes are exposed or in municipalities where PVC is not allowed. Its enhanced visual appeal makes it popular for exposed drains.

Types of Plumbing Pipe: Conclusion

As you can see, there are many different options for replacing the plumbing in your home.

If you are still unsure about what plumbing options are right for your kitchen or bathroom remodeling project, feel free to contact us at LaBonte Construction—voted Best of Milwaukee 2024 by Shepherd Express readers.

If you’re considering a new roof or building an addition, you may first want to learn about the most common roof types in home remodeling, and how they impact your choice of roofing materials.

Depending on a home’s architecture, a roof can potentially make up 40% of the exterior, often playing a big role in its overall look and curb appeal.

So, when the time comes to install a new roof, you’ll want to pick roofing materials and shingle colors that work well with the shape and slope of your roof, as well as complement your home’s exterior design.

Beyond the aesthetic considerations, adding a new roof is also a great opportunity to integrate energy-saving or “green” elements into your house, such as solar panels, a green roof, or a design that collects rainwater or melted snow that you can repurpose for your lawn or garden.

Also, adding a new roof style can increase the amount of living space in your home, which may justify the cost of a more expensive roof.

Moreover, while you may want to make a unique statement with your new roof, remember to make sure it complements your home’s existing design features—and blends in well with the surrounding neighborhood.

Common Roof Types

Gable roof

A gable roof is the most common type of roof in the United States: the classic triangle shape is used across many styles and geographic regions.

The gable roof is very versatile, and its simple design is easy to install and offers a timeless look. The high pitch of a gable roof allows for easy water and snow runoff into gutters and downspouts.

One possible drawback for gable roofs is that they are susceptible to damage by very strong winds.

Hip roof

A traditional hip roof consists of four equal-length slopes that meet to form a simple ridge. There are variations, such as a half-hip that features two shorter sides with eaves.

Although it is slightly more difficult to build than a gable style, the hip roof is a popular choice. All four sides can have gutters and downspouts, improving water and snow runoff.

They also perform better in high-wind areas. However, it may require extra ventilation efforts in the attic.

Also, most of a hip roof is visible when looking at your house, so the type and color of roofing shingles you choose for a hip roof will greatly influence your home’s overall exterior appearance.

Dutch roof

Dutch roof is basically a hip roof with a small gable at either end. The result is easier access to the lower portion of the roof with the added benefits of natural light, extra space, and added interest to your home’s architecture.

They can work great for attic spaces on your home or garage.

Mansard roof

It is a French design and is more difficult to build than the hip or gable roof. The mansard roof actually features two slopes within one on each side.

The bottom part of the roof slope is steeper so that the pitch of the roof barely starts. This allows more room on the inside and in most cases creates an extra space.

It offers a beautiful, elegant aesthetic, but the mansard may require structural changes to your existing house to accommodate.

Perhaps the biggest downside for the mansard roof in the Midwest is drainage.

Flat roof

Flat roofs are not really 100% flat. They must have a slight slope of at least 2% to allow for water and snow run-off.

Used most often in commercial structures like apartment buildings, malls, and office buildings, flat roofs became widely used on residential homes in the 1950s and ‘60s.

The simple design and construction of a flat roof tends to reduce building costs, but especially in Wisconsin, it is essential to hire a quality contractor. A qualified builder will ensure that your flat roof is properly sealed.

A quality flat roof offers many benefits:

• Distinctive design that separates your property from your neighbors’.
• Use as a deck or patio in the spring and summer.
• Potential for adding levels to your home.
• Adding heating and cooling units that won’t obscure the architecture of your home.
• Ease of installing PV solar panels, which will improve energy efficiency and make the roof more eco-friendly.

Shed roof

A shed roof is kind of like a flat roof, but it’s at a much steeper incline.

With just a single slope, you will commonly find shed roofs utilized on cabins, barns, and of course, sheds. But It has gained favor on many ultra-modern builds.

Shed roofs allow for interesting window placements, from small rows of glass panes directly beneath the roof to large picture windows across the front of the house.

A shed roof offers many of the same benefits as a flat roof—including lower cost—without the risk of leaking.

But the single slope does require a strong gutter and downspouts system to handle double the water of a more traditional build.

Butterfly roof

In this very modern design, the two roof slopes meet in a trough in the middle rather than a peak.

The crease where the two sides meet creates a natural channel for directing rainwater into a reservoir—which is usually part of the butterfly design.

This eco-friendly feature can be a challenge for Wisconsin winters, but there are materials available—EPDM rubber, TPO, PVC, or some metal and other organic materials—that can work to keep a butterfly roof watertight.

A butterfly roof can greatly reduce water usage for lawn irrigation or gardening.

Also, the high walls on the edge of the roof provide a great opportunity to increase natural light in the home. Finally, a butterfly roof is very aerodynamic and can withstand strong winds.

Gambrel roof

Also called barn roof because of its most common use, a gambrel roof’s main benefit is providing additional headroom in a house’s top level, due to the low slope of the top two of the roof’s four panels.

The design also allows for installation of windows.

Looking a bit like the top half of an octagon shape, the gambrel roof works perfectly for barns with upper-level lofts to hold stacked hay.

Gambrel roofs are relatively easy to install, and can work with just about any roofing material.

On the downside, the high sloping bottom panels can create poor ventilation, are difficult to install on existing structures, and are susceptible to damage from strong winds.

Dormer roof

A dormer is more an addition to an existent roof. It is a window and a roof (gabled, hipped, flat, among others) protruding from the slope of an existing roof.

A functional dormer creates usable space out of the roof, adding natural light and headroom.

A dormer can also increase ventilation in your upper floor living area, and add unique design elements—both interior and exterior.

As with many other roof additions, a properly installed dormer requires a skilled contractor who will ensure the work is done right and not susceptible to leaks.

M-shaped roof

An M-shaped roof could basically be considered a ‘double gable’. It features two sloped sides that meet in the middle with corresponding slopes on each side. This pattern could be repeated multiple times, especially in condominiums or a strip mall.

The obvious downfall of this design would be snow and rain building up in the center where the two slopes meet but this is alleviated by a central gutter running from front to back, perpendicular to the front of the building. Even so, the pitch of M-framed roofs is generally steeper to assist in runoff and to ‘catch’ less rain and snow.

The Right Roofing Material for Your Home

Replacing or enhancing your home’s roof is one of the most important investments you can make. Choosing the best remodeling contractor is essential, but it is also important to understand the different roofing styles and material options so you can have an informed discussion.

If you are ready to discuss a new roof for your home, please feel free to contact us at LaBonte Construction.

Painting interior surfaces of your house can be one of the least expensive and most impactful home remodeling projects you can do. As home builders, we often get requests from clients to have paint sheens explained and where to use them.

If you have not enlisted an interior designer on your home remodeling project, you can use this article as a reference to help you pick the right sheens when painting the rooms in your home.

Sheen measures the reflected light off a painted surface. This test is performed by recording the amount of original light remaining after it reflects from a surface at an 85-degree angle. So in simple terms, sheen measures how “shiny” a paint is.

Paint Sheens Explained: Flat (0-3%)

Flat paint is perfect for plaster walls that have imperfections like bumps, scratches, and holes. With the most pigment, and virtually no shine, flat-sheen paint will conceal these blemishes. And a quality flat paint looks great with bold colors.

However, cleaning a flat-sheen surface without removing paint is very difficult, so make sure to use it only in low-traffic areas away from kids and pets.

Common uses:

• Ceilings
• Garage
• Closets

Matte (3-10%)

Matte paint is also known as concealer paint and sometimes referred to as velvet. It’s similar to flat paint, and our home remodeling clients who have original walls often choose matte paint.

Also, rooms with lots of natural light benefit from matte paint. Its slightly higher gloss makes matte somewhat more durable and easier to clean than flat paint, but it should be avoided in high-traffic or high-moisture areas.

Common uses:

• Adult bedrooms
• Ceilings

Eggshell (12-25%)

Eggshell paints are great for heavily trafficked areas of your home. They convey a greater warmth and depth to surfaces than flat paints.

Also, eggshell can be a perfect middle ground: Its low gloss hides imperfections well, but it has enough shine to provide durability and washability.

Moreover, eggshell is a great general-use paint sheen, popular with property managers, in garages, when doing basement remodeling projects, and in bedrooms.

Common uses:

• Dining room
• Hallways
• Family room
• Bedrooms

Satin (25-35%)

Satin (sometimes called low sheen) is similar to eggshell, with just a bit more shine. It’s washable enough for regular traffic areas, looks great in any color, and is versatile enough for many different uses.

Satin’s slightly glossy appearance, however, tends to highlight surface imperfections—such as roller or brush strokes—more than flat paints. Also, touch-ups with satin paint can be tricky.

Common uses:

• Living room
• Mudroom
• Hallways
• Kids’ rooms

Semi-Gloss (35-60%)

The higher sheen of semi-gloss paint is most often seen on trim, in high-traffic areas, and in areas of high moisture like a bathroom remodel.

Semi-gloss offers good stain resistance, is easy to clean, and is most often used in rooms requiring frequent scrubbing, such as kitchens and bathrooms.

Because higher-sheen paints like semi-gloss show the imperfections behind the paint, it is important that your home builder or remodeling contractor prepare the surface with care and apply the coating with precision.

Common uses:

• Laundry room
• Bathroom
• Kitchen
• Cabinets

Paint Sheens Explained:
High-Gloss (Greater than 60%)

High gloss paint is a favorite accent of residential interior designers. They have the highest reflective appearance and are the toughest, most durable, and most stain resistant of all finishes.

Like semi-gloss paints, high-gloss paints are very sensitive to surface preparation and require an expert contractor to apply them.

So if you have an understanding of the maintenance involved, a high-gloss painted surface will set your remodeling project apart from your neighbor’s.

Common uses:

• Trim
• Windowsills
• Woodwork
• Furniture

Paint Sheens Explained: Conclusion

Picking the right paint for your application can make the difference between an average room and a fabulous room. Choosing the color is only half the battle. With all painting, surface preparation is the key to a long-lasting, quality job.

Picking a quality builder to paint your kitchen or bathroom remodeling project is essential. So contact us at LaBonte Construction to talk about painting as part of your next home remodeling or construction project.

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• See also: Our post on Painting Your Porch Ceiling Blue

Drywall, also known as sheetrock, is a gypsum board that is used to cover your walls. Historic homes used lathe and plaster to cover the walls, but drywall allows us as remodeling contractors to create a uniform wall thickness with specialty drywall types for unique applications. This complete guide to drywall will help you decide what kind will work best for your next remodeling project.

Half-inch drywall is commonly used in residential construction, but thicknesses range from ¼” to 5/8″. It’s sold in 4′ widths, with lengths of 8′, 10′ and 12′.

While the shorter 4′ x 8′ sheets of drywall are perfect for remodeling, in larger projects or projects where access is easier, 12′ panels can lay flatter and be less expensive because of increased coverage.

Complete Guide to Drywall: Types of Specialty Drywall

Type X

Type X drywall is 5/8″ thick and used as a fire break. These panels are UL listed and increase a normal 1/2″ wall’s 30-minute fire rating to one hour.

This drywall is used where required by code, but also as extra insurance by some of our remodeling clients.

Common places to find fire-rated drywall are between homes and garages, in condominiums or multifamily dwellings, in mechanical rooms, and on ceilings between floors.

X-code drywall is used for its fire resistance, but as builders, we find it makes homes quieter, sturdier, and feel like they are better quality.

Mold Resistant

Moisture-resistant drywall is often called “green board” by remodeling contractors. It gets its nickname from the color of the mold-resistant paper that covers the gypsum core.

Although many of these panels are green, some manufacturers use other colors, such as purple.

We recommend our clients use green board during bathroom remodeling projects, behind the sink base when remodeling a kitchen, in a laundry room, and in basements. Mold-resistant drywall comes in ½” and 5/8″ thicknesses.

Flexible Drywall

Flexible drywall is a ¼” drywall used for curved walls, ceilings, arches, and staircases. Because it is designed to bend, there are fewer risks of cracking when compared to standard 1/4″ drywall.

Ballistic Drywall

While rare in residential applications, drywall with ballistic ratings can be used for high net worth clients to secure bedrooms, panic rooms, and other areas where clients might want to hide from intruders, rioters, and kidnapping attempts.

Ballistic drywall—drywall that stops bullets—is most commonly used in specialty retail, government, and data facilities. These specialty panels are available in sizes up to 5′-10′, have a one-hour fire rating, are lighter than equivalent steel, and can provide up to NIJ0108.01 (Level III standard) protection.

Acoustic Drywall

Acoustic drywall panels are available in 1/2″, 5/8″, and 1-3/8″ thicknesses. This specialized type of drywall outperforms standard drywall and even multiple layers of standard drywall at preventing sound transmission between spaces.

As home remodeling contractors, we love this drywall for home theaters, on wet walls in bathrooms and kitchens, and between basements and other play areas where kids can make a lot of noise.

Abuse Resistance (AR)

Offered in 5/8″, abuse resistance drywall is designed for heavy use applications like sport courts or exercise rooms.

As residential remodeling contractors, we do not often use abuse resistance drywall, but it is a great option for niche applications.

Complete Guide to Drywall: Finish Levels

Level 0

Used in the introductory phase of construction, this level of drywall has no finishing, tape, or accessories. Level 0 is for temporary construction or places where the final finish is not yet decided.

Level 1

Also known as fire taping, Level 1 drywall is typically specified for joint treatment in smoke barrier applications and areas not normally open to public view, such as plenum areas above ceilings, or attics.

• All joints and interior angles should have tape embedded in joint compound. Excess joint compound and tool marks are acceptable; fastener heads need not be covered.
• Accessories are not required, unless specified in the project documents.

Level 2

Typically specified where gypsum panel products are used as a substrate for tile; may be used in garages, warehouse storage, or other similar areas where surface appearance is not a concern.

• All joints and interior angles should have tape embedded in joint compound and be wiped with a joint knife, leaving a thin coating of joint compound over all joints and interior angles.
• If you applied joint compound over the body of the tape and smoothed at the time of embedment during Level 1, that will suffice for Level 2.
• Fastener heads and accessories should be covered with one coat of joint compound. Surface should be free of excess joint compound. Tool marks are acceptable.

Level 3

Typically specified in areas that are to receive heavy- or medium-texture finishes (spray or hand applied) before final painting, or where heavy-duty/commercial grade wall coverings are to be applied as the final decoration.

This is not the proper finish for smooth wall designs or where light textures, non-continuous textures, or lightweight wall coverings will be applied.

• All joints and interior angles should have tape embedded in joint compound and should be immediately wiped with a joint knife, leaving a thin coating of joint compound over all joints and interior angles.
• One separate coat of joint compound should be applied over all joints and interior angles.
• Fastener heads and accessories should be covered with two separate coats of joint compound. The surface should be smooth and free of tool marks.

Note: Applying a primer prior to final painting or wallpapering is recommended.

Level 4

Typically specified in public areas where smooth wall designs are decorated with flat paints, light textures, non-continuous textures, or wall coverings.

Unbacked vinyl wall coverings are not recommended. Non-flat or dark/deep tone paints are not recommended. Refer to Level 5.

In critical lighting areas, flat paints applied over light continuous textures may reduce joint photographing—a common defect where seams and joints in the drywall are visible through the finish.

The weight, texture, and sheen level of wall coverings applied over this level of finish should be carefully evaluated. Joints and fasteners must be adequately concealed if the wall covering used is of lightweight construction, contains limited pattern, or has a sheen level other than flat.

• All joints and interior angles should have tape embedded in joint compound and should be immediately wiped with a joint knife, leaving a thin coating of joint compound over all joints and interior angles.
• Two separate coats of joint compound should be applied over all flat joints and one separate coat of joint compound should be applied over interior angles.
• Fastener heads and accessories should be covered with three separate coats of joint compound. The surface should be smooth and free of tool marks.
• Where glass mat and/or fiber-reinforced gypsum panels are installed, refer to the gypsum panel or finishing product manufacturers for specific finishing recommendations.

Note: Applying a primer prior to final painting or wallpapering is recommended.

Level 5

Typically specified in appearance areas where smooth wall designs are decorated with non-flat paints (i.e., sheen/gloss) or other glossy decorative finishes, dark/deep tone paints are applied, or critical lighting conditions occur.

This level of finish is the most effective method to provide a uniform surface and minimize the possibility of joint photographing and/or fasteners showing through the final paint or wallpaper.

• All joints and interior angles should have tape embedded in joint compound and should be immediately wiped with a joint knife, leaving a thin consistent coating of joint compound over all joints and interior angles.
• Two separate coats of joint compound should be applied over all flat joints and one separate coat of joint compound should be applied over interior angles.
• Fastener heads and accessories should be covered with three separate coats of joint compound. A skim coat of joint compound or a material manufactured especially for this purpose should be applied to the entire surface. The surface should be smooth and free of tool marks.
• Where glass mat and/or fiber reinforced gypsum panels are installed, refer to the gypsum panel manufacturer for specific finishing recommendations.

Note: Applying a primer prior to final painting or wallpapering is recommended.

Complete Guide to Drywall: Popular textures in the Midwest

Popcorn

While remodeling contractors typically get the call to remove popcorn texture, it was a popular in low- to mid-cost housing as well as in multi-family housing. Typically, this texture was used on ceilings from the 1950s to the 1980s.

Popcorn ceilings were popular with home builders because it hid imperfections in the drywall work, allowing them to build more quickly and cheaply.

In addition to being quick for builders to apply, popcorn ceilings also provided acoustic dampening, which was great for apartment dwellers or families with children.

In the late 1970s, popcorn ceiling manufactures switched from asbestos to polystyrene particles to achieve the same look. If your home was built before 1980 and you have popcorn ceilings you want to remove, be sure to contact a qualified remodeling contractor to test your ceilings for asbestos.

Knockdown

Knockdown texture is the modern popcorn. While popcorn textures were used mostly on ceilings, knockdown is used on all drywall surfaces. Production home builders use this method to hide imperfections in the drywall and speed up the job.

Once the drywall is taped, a hopper is used to spray particles of drywall compound onto the wall. A large, flexible plastic paddle is dragged down the wall to give the particles of compound the knockdown look.

Orange Peel

Orange peel texture is sometimes referred to as eggshell or splatter texture. As high-end remodeling contractors, we do not use this often, but it is commonly used in commercial construction, by new construction builders, and in multifamily construction.

Orange peel is more subtle than knockdown texture and is easier to clean, while still hiding imperfections and making the drywall process faster.

Skip Trowel

Skip trowel is a drywall texture created by spreading drywall joint compound in random arches. While it is used in some homes to hide imperfections, we often apply this texture in remodeling projects in Whitefish Bay to match the existing conditions on the plaster.

Sand

Sand texture is exactly what is sounds like. Your builder will introduce sand into the drywall primer to give the wall a rough texture. This texture is common in garages.

The Right Drywall for Your Home Remodel

While drywall work is probably best left to a qualified remodeling contractor, it is important to understand the different drywall types and textures so you can articulate what you want when designing your next project.

Drywall occupies the majority of the surfaces in most people’s home, so make sure to get exactly the finish you want.

If you have additional questions about drywalling or want to schedule a time to discuss your next remodeling project, please feel free to contact us at LaBonte Construction.

Pets are notorious for using spaces that they are not supposed to. Cats love to hang out in high-up spaces, and dogs always seem to scratch and bite things they aren’t supposed to. A home remodel provides you the opportunity to design a space with your pets in mind, without sacrificing style. At LaBonte Construction we’ve gathered a few pet-friendly ideas that we can incorporate into your next home remodeling project.

Built-In Feeding Stations

Finding the right spot to place your pet’s food bowls can be tricky. Most people typically place pet food bowls in the kitchen or garage. However, no matter where you place the food bowls, they always seem to be in the way. Many of our clients avoid this hazard by having their pet’s food station incorporated into their remodel.

We can do this few different ways. One of the most common, effective and stylish ways to hide your pets food bowls, is to have them built into the kitchen cabinetry or mudroom. Others may opt to have the bowls built into pullout drawers, allowing you to stow them when not in use.

As well as housing food bowls, some built-in food stations can incorporate a faucet. This helps you avoid having to constantly bend down to refill the water bowl, and provides your pets with a consistent, clean water supply.

Mudrooms

Mudrooms have long been commonplace in American homes. They were typically a small hallway-like space between the garage and kitchen. Because mudrooms are often the first thing a guest sees when entering a home, many of our clients have opted to have a larger, more stylish mudroom installed in their home remodel.

Typically used to store shoes and other outwear, many mudrooms that we remodel also make for a great space to store pet accessories like leashes, toys, food and treats. Additionally, many of the mudrooms we do for dog owners incorporate other pet-friendly features such as a dog washing station or built-in kennels.

Dog Washing Stations

One of the fastest-growing trends in pet-friendly home remodeling is washing stations for dogs. Many pet owners wash their dogs in the bathtub, while others may take them to the groomers. A dog washing station adds convenience and style to your home, and can save money on grooming costs.

Most dog washing stations look like a shower, but are about half the height. Many stations are commonly equipped with the same functions a typical shower has, like hot and cold water, a spray nozzle and a recessed tile niche for shampoos and other toiletries. Typically, clients who incorporate a dog washing station into their remodeling project, build it in the mudroom. They do this to avoid their dog tracking dirt and pests into the rest of the home.

Dog washing stations can help with home resale value. Several reports from realtors show that you can recoup the investment if you sell your home to another dog owner.

Built-In Bed Or Kennels

Many experts say that it is important to give your pet a dedicated place to sleep. Most dogs sleep for upwards of twelve hours a day, so the right bed is important. Many dog owners use crates or kennels to give their dog a place to sleep, but crates or kennels are not always attractive and can take up a lot of space. Instead, you can incorporate pet beds or kennels into cabinets in the mudroom of your home. Additionally, incorporating a shower drain under the built-in kennel or bed can help you clean out your pet’s sleeping area.

Central Vacuum

Whether it’s dirt or hair, pets can often leave your home a mess. Vacuuming after your pet can be tedious, especially if it sheds a lot. A central vacuum cleaner helps make the cleanup process a little easier.

Typically installed in a basement, garage, or storage room, a central vacuum system is a vacuum built directly into your home. Inlets are strategically installed in the walls throughout your home where you can attach hoses and other vacuum accessories. These inlets feed directly back to the main tank, and can store more dirt and debris than a traditional vacuum cleaner. Central vacuum systems allow pet owners to not have to drag a vacuum around the house.

Make Your Home Safe and Pet-Friendly!

Over 60 million U.S. households have a dog, and over 40 million households have a cat. To save space and maintain style, many clients now ask us to include built-in pet features to their home remodeling project. If you would like to incorporate any of these ideas into your next home remodel, please contact us at LaBonte Construction.